| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Just Thinking
Regardless, if buying new, I d buy no later than a a 2025 model. Remote kill switches will be mandatory come 2026.
|
Boomerweps
|
11/16/23 07:38am |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Ok to run shore power without battery?
I added a battery disconnect and use that for winter storage but left the TT plugged into shore power so I can still use the lights and radio. Just yesterday I plugged in a portable electric heater and took a nap in there. Need the light’s because I put reflectix in all the windows, retains the heat a little better and makes it much darker in there. My batteries are LiFePO4 so no float voltage isn’t a big deal.
|
Boomerweps
|
11/09/23 01:03pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: How much capacity is lost if converter isn't Li-friendly?
My SIL went to a Yamaha ATV mechanics course and they were big on showing early Lithium battery fires. The tech were told to walk away if a battery fire started and just protect the surrounding area.
He thought I was crazy installing LiFePO4 batteries under my TT bed.
If you do a little online research, you will find that LiFePO4 batteries are safer than all other batteries.
You can go online and watch Will Prose and others take a drill to them.
I’ve seen two battery fires in vehicles, one actually blew up. Standard Lead Acid.
|
Boomerweps
|
11/03/23 09:31am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: New to Solar. Conect directly to battery ????
You will need some kind of controler there are several on the market.. victron .. is a good one.
Used with Harbor Freight panels. Like buying a new F550 to pull an A-liner.
|
Boomerweps
|
11/01/23 09:56am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: How much capacity is lost if converter isn't Li-friendly?
Your existing converter will take care of most of the charging but take a longer time. Your solar should take care of reaching the higher voltages needed to reach 100% and equalizing the cells. That’s what I’m currently doing. I do have a lithium capable stand-alone charger that I used before permanently mounting solar panels.
|
Boomerweps
|
11/01/23 09:50am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Recommendations for solar charge/controller
Several battery disconnects are set up with a battery 1, 2, 1+2, and off positions. If used to seperate battery banks, a pre controller panel disconnect switch should be added to use while shifting battery banks.
My hillbilly engineering degree method is that I have an SAE/Zamp style side connection from the panels and another similar inside from that jack that I can easily disconnect. The interior one is handy if I want to connect the stand alone charger. Switches are great but unplugging works just as easy.
|
Boomerweps
|
10/28/23 06:12am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Recommendations for solar charge/controller
If going to the effort of having switch to switch between battery banks, adding another between the panels and controller shouldn’t be a big deal.
Every controller manual emphasizes connecting the batteries first and disconnecting them last. They imply damage may occur but not stated clearly how. IMO, there is concern about the battery not powering the control circuitry and the panel power not being limited.
You could always shift banks at night ;)
|
Boomerweps
|
10/27/23 05:18am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Shocks
My plan is to add trailer Sumo Springs IF the bounce gets too much for me.
They should absorb the compression hits like a shock absorber, easy install, less wear and tear.
|
Boomerweps
|
10/25/23 10:23am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Recommendations for solar charge/controller
If you have ANY shading on your panels in series, you will lose a lot of power. The gain in series is two fold from the higher voltage. One, the panel voltage reaches the activation voltage needed by the MPPT controller earlier in the day and retains it longer in the evening. The higher voltage allows more power flow through thinner wires, I.e., less line loss.
Starting in parallel allows you to easily add more panels.
IMO, EPEver controllers are the most cost effective. Victron is likely the best consumer grade units with a matching cost.
Wattage equals volts times amps. Which unit you need comes down to that. Easier still, find likely candidate controllers, download their manuals. The ones I’ve seen all state the recommended maximum PV wattage input. For example mine states 390watts at 12vdc. So I’m planning on ending up with four 100 watt panels since PV panels rarely put out their rated output (for many reasons).
I agree that you would want a 50 Amp capable unit. The EPEver tracer series 4210AN (40 amp unit) lists max PV wattage at 520 watts.
|
Boomerweps
|
10/25/23 10:11am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: 12v wire thickness
No room for 2 wires from post to post.
I just replaced all my battery terminal screws with slightly longer stainless steel bolts, with a lock and regular washers. They are all M8s for thread size and diameter. This is to allow two large terminals to be stacked for paralleling my batteries and allow plenty of thread engagement. Each battery has two connections per terminal, on one end battery is the inverter, and the other, the lines to the buss bars and battery cutoff.
|
Boomerweps
|
10/20/23 08:48am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: 12v wire thickness
Read the reviews on Amazon. Most complain about the wires supplied with inverters is TOO small, mostly 4 AWG.
Use at least 1/0awg or better yet, 2/0awg. If making your own, ask for the given gauge welding cables at your electrical supply store. Welding cable is very flexible with many smaller wires.
Another consideration is that many, myself included, decide that a given inverter is a little small and get a higher power unit. If the wiring is extra thick for the smaller inverter, it can support the larger unit.
IMO, the inverter should be directly connected to the battery bank with only a fuse or circuit breaker on the positive cable.
I plan on adding a BUS bar. Should I connect the negative end directly to my shunt and positive to my batteries...Or should I go through the Bus Bars, which add distance.
I would not route inverter power via the shunt or buss bars (extra connections between the battery and inverter). Make it as direct & short as possible, just protection.
|
Boomerweps
|
10/18/23 07:39pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: 12v wire thickness
Read the reviews on Amazon. Most complain about the wires supplied with inverters is TOO small, mostly 4 AWG.
Use at least 1/0awg or better yet, 2/0awg. If making your own, ask for the given gauge welding cables at your electrical supply store. Welding cable is very flexible with many smaller wires.
Another consideration is that many, myself included, decide that a given inverter is a little small and get a higher power unit. If the wiring is extra thick for the smaller inverter, it can support the larger unit.
IMO, the inverter should be directly connected to the battery bank with only a fuse or circuit breaker on the positive cable.
|
Boomerweps
|
10/18/23 11:06am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: 2005 Safari Simba Hot Water heater 120 volt Electric
My wolf pup also has a goofy single plug outlet near the water heater that the water heater plugs into under the front bed behind a filler panel. The only switch for electric is on the exterior of the heater.
If the indicator light is lit, even dimly, and goes out when you move the switch up to the on position, might your switch be mounted upside down? And operate the opposite of what you thought?
|
Boomerweps
|
10/16/23 08:58am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Lifepo4 battery charging confusion
If your converter is designed for LiFePO4, use the staged charging.
|
Boomerweps
|
10/09/23 09:13am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: furrion power cable warm
It’s a sign of some kind of extra resistance. I recommend using some contact cleaner like De-Oxite on both the plug and receptacle.
|
Boomerweps
|
10/03/23 07:24am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Vent fans and covers
I went with the cheap Hueng (Sp?) replacement fan at half or less the cost of Fantastic Fans. 3 forward speeds, 2 reverse, keeps manual opening cover.
|
Boomerweps
|
09/26/23 06:59am |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: Wfco8930/50
So far, my experience with LiFePO4 has been that the non lithium rated converter has kept the battery at full charge. My TT is always connected to power in storage so extra charging time hasn’t mattered. I did buy and initially use a standalone battery charger to make sure it got the full voltage needed to equalize the cells occasionally. As long as the stock converter voltage is higher than the battery, it will continue charging. A lithium capable converter puts out higher voltage and amperage to charge the battery faster. I’ve since installed 200 watts of CIGS solar panels with a solar controller (previously had free standing panels) that keeps the batteries topped off. I have no plans to replace my converter unit. I did research that. About $240 or so for the WFCO converter and install didn’t seem to hard for a semi-knowledgeable DIYer. On my power center, its the metal box attached below the fuse box.
|
Boomerweps
|
09/24/23 09:17am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Saying Good-bye/Scrapping a TT
Thank goodness there will be one less trailer to see looking abandoned.
The only thing I would bother with telling a prospective buyer about is the soft floor. Tanks and tires age out and you’ll be stating it has been setting for five years. You would not normally point out the battery’s age.
Definitely sell it at a low price, as is.
|
Boomerweps
|
09/23/23 08:51am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Black Tank only holds 1/2 to 1/3 of capacity
Sounds like you have a large version of the poop pyramid going on. Someone left the black tank draining during use. Some form of pooper-mache.
Choose a good bacterial poop/paper cleaner and put that in the tank, fill it with water, let it set a few days, take it for sloshing drive to really stir it up and let it set a few days more. THEN dump it and wand it out.
So far my fav cleaner is Happy Camper.
Many swear by the ice cube trick. Best bet there is to make your own large solid cubes so they have chance to knock things around and apart before melting. But if the contents isn’t softened a bit before, it won’t work that well. Also when using ice cubes you don’t want a tank full of liquid. You want the cubes knocking around the bottom.
IF you have a direct drop into your black tank, you could lightly use a pressure washer to break the pyramid apart. The reason I say lightly is BACKSPRAY and high pressure water could eat into the tank plastic.
|
Boomerweps
|
09/12/23 07:53am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Fridge beeping
It is because you set to AUTO it' looking for gas also, set it to AC only.
There is no “AC” button, just auto/gas and on/off
I get the check indicator every time I plug the TT into shore power. If I select the off then on, check goes out.
I don’t normally leave the propane on, especially while traveling. I’ve never traveled over 5 hours away so the refrigerator is just an ice cooler for the trip.
|
Boomerweps
|
09/10/23 06:50am |
Travel Trailers
|
